
What you need to know to make beautiful, inexpensive movies using a DSLR.
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This FREE guide is 15,000 words long and has garnered 250,000 pageviews to date. If you find it helpful, please buy your DSLR gear from the Amazon and B&H Photo links here. Also, because this entire guide is free, please donate if you find it helpful!
Introduction
That “movie mode” hidden in the menu system of your new DSLR? It’s not just a novelty feature. It’s nothing short of a revolutionary, democratizing, disruptive moviemaking technology, as important as the invention of color film, 16mm, or HDTV. Not convinced? I’ve written more about how the DSLR is affecting the future of not only cinematography but also photography, as well as how their low-light sensitivity enables a whole new generation of international filmmakers to tell their story. However, the proof is in the pudding, so here are ten examples of stunning DSLR cinematography. Zacuto’s Great Camera Shootout 2010 is another great demonstration of what DSLRs are capable of when compared to (much more expensive) 35mm film cameras.
As for my own DSLR qualifications, I recently shot two episodes of the WBP Labs/Babelgum show RADAR on a Nikon D90; several behind-the-scenes videos for Focus Features on a Canon 5d Mark II; some other DSLR footage I can’t yet talk about publicly; and I’ve lensed plenty of pre-DSLR projects (e.g. The West Side, or a music video I shot when I was 19).
Digital cinematography is changing so rapidly these days that a printed book on the subject will likely be outdated by the time it reaches store shelves; this is especially true when it comes to the rapid release cycle of DSLRs. Up-to-date information can be found on online forums, but forums lack the organizing principles of a book, and as a result it can take a ludicrously long time to piece together reliable information (I spent months forum-surfing to assemble my own camera package). Thus, this guide: I hope it saves readers money they would’ve otherwise spent on an out-of-date book, and I hope it saves forums from so many newbie — sorry, “n00b” — questions.
DSLRs (often called HDSLRs or VDSLRs now) are a great enabler on the “no film school” front, as they are priced to own and allow aspiring filmmakers to follow the “buy a camera and learn” lesson plan. But as with any creative tool, a DSLR is only as good as the person using it — because, while these cameras offer a world of advantages, they also come with a considerable set of drawbacks. However, these drawbacks are worth dealing with in order to get the kind of amazing images possible with an imaging sensor that has twenty to thirty times more surface area than that of a similarly priced, dedicated video camera. To emphasize: these cameras are not designed to shoot movies. Their primary function remains to shoot still photos, but it just so happens that they shoot amazing video very inexpensively, and for that they are worth tinkering with, hacking, and jumping through a number of hoops to use. And make no mistake: to modify these still cameras to behave like “real” movie cameras, there are a lot of hoops to jump through (thus the length of this guide), but you will be rewarded by using a camera that many of us could only dream of a few years ago, for cheaper than any of us imagined.
This guide assumes some basic knowledge of moving images, such as exposure, shutter speed, focal length, and frame rate. It focuses on the technical challenges unique to DSLR cinematography — it won’t teach you how to light scenes, stage camera movements, or cook a full English breakfast. It will, however, give you a huge jump start in figuring out how to make beautiful, inexpensive movies using a DSLR.
I can only take credit for a small percentage of the knowledge here. The vast majority of it comes from terrific user forums like DV Info, Cinema5d, DVXuser, REDuser, and Creative COW; news sites like FreshDV and Pro Video Coalition; and noted DSLR users like Philip Bloom, Dan Chung, Vincent LaForet, Jon Fairhurst, Stu Maschwitz, and Shane Hurlbut (not to mention firmware luminary Tramm Hudson). I’ve tried to credit and link to others wherever possible, but ultimately this is one person’s opinion. I’ve taken a lot of findings from the forums and aforementioned users, combined them with my own experiences, and distilled everything down into one time-saving guide. Plenty of people will disagree with some of what I say here, so please make the forums your first stop after reading this guide. Let me repeat: if you have questions, take them to the forums — you’ll get a faster response and benefit from the wisdom of the crowd. Finally, take into account the crucial fact that this guide is free! It’s saving a lot of people a lot of time, and it costs nothing, so with that in mind, please keep your comments and suggestions constructive.
The guide is organized in order of basic-to-advanced, meaning you can read it from start to finish if you’re new to DSLR cinematography, or jump around using the pull-down table of contents (top right) if you’re a seasoned vet. Without further ado, click “Next” to get started!
102 COMMENTS
Hi Ryan.. Very good guide/article.. Could you give me the link to the Indian Knockoffs thing on ebay? Cant find it..
Thank you
Hi, great help, thanks, I´ll be back and check up regularily when I get started videoing….!!!
-One thing I wonder is whether iMovie will edit 5D2 files, so far I haven´t even been able to import the files into the programme….
-There´s probably lots of better programmes, just it´s all I got for now and maybe others is in that situation too….?In the section about lenses You recommend that people buy a 50 to start and then add a 28 or 35 for Wide and a 85 or 135 for Zoom, Zoom is the wrong word, Tele is what You mean….;-)
-A Zoom is a lense with an variable focallength and can be both Wideangle- and TeleZoom as well as both, an so-called All-Round-Zoom….The Canon 5D Video clips are recorded as Quicktime MOV files with H.264/MPEG-4 and iMovie will gladly work with them, although the Macbook will probably have trouble playing the video smoothly unless you Optimize the video (warning I can’t find anywhere on the net that says the quality will be preserved if you optimize)
Josue, I’m waiting til NAB to see what new follow focuses (focusi?) are announced.
The drop down menu only shows the introduction as an option, and the “next” link isnt active….
am i missing something?Hi Ryan, thanks for the guide very helpful. I can’t find anything in reference to image stabilized lenses and whether they are of advantage to shooting video with VDSLR. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Good point Ian. I don’t have any image-stabilized lenses but it seems some of them are good to go and some cause problems; I’ll squeeze an update in soon.
The new movie shooting DSLRs are a fantastic step forward but one must have a LCD loupe/Viewfinder. Take a look at this info site to see who makes viewfinders for any DSLR – http://www.dslrviewfinders.com
It has links to suppliers and links to reviews etc.
Cheers,
Jason Jameson
dslrtechniques.com- jerod on 05.20.10 @ 11:25PM
I have designed a very effective dslr holder i have been testing it for about 2 months and its great. I think it will become the mainstream design type . I want to sale them for about 60 $ each.
Just a comment/question about “native” ISOs… I ran across another article in someone’s blog about the so-called “native” ISOs on the Canon 5D mkII and 7D.
According to this article, the native ISOs are actually the normal ISOs of 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, etc. The ISOs that are a multiple of 160 that everyone is calling “native” are actually pulled down 1/3 stop from the ISO above.
For example, ISO 160 is actually ISO 200 digitally pulled down 1/3 stop. So, while you’re getting less noise in these ISOs, you’re getting 1/3 stop less dynamic range at the top end. Yes your blacks may be blacker and have less noise, but your highlights are clipping too soon and have less detail as a result.
The ISOs that are a multiple of 125 are actually the ISO below them pushed 1/3 of a stop. ISO 125 is actually ISO 100 pushed digitally to ISO 125. That means you’re raising your black levels in these ISOs and extending dynamic range at the top end by 1/3 stop.
If all this is true, I’m wondering about the validity of Zacuto’s otherwise excellent 2010 shootout?StivVid — thanks for the comment. Do you have the article link handy by any chance? Would be interested to read it (and possibly update the guide!).
Here ya go.
http://shootintheshot.joshsilfen.com/2010/05/13/canon-hd-dslr-native-iso/
I believe there are some links in this article to other sources. You could read for days about this stuff.
Excellent work. Keep it up.
Rob
>
This is really really helpful – thank you for sharing this!
I made a post on my little blog, hope that’s okay for you.
Cheers,
jonni- John on 06.28.10 @ 9:39PM
Ryan,
Thanks for all the great info on your site. Just made a donation…keep up the excellent work!John
Thanks very much, John! I’ve got a new and improved PDF in the works, will send it out when it’s good to go.
grrr! i want to get this page downloaded into my iphone so i can show my friend, but i cant find a way.. will anyone tell me how please??
The Sock-Loupe is my #1 aid in shooting DSLR. Composition, focus and exposure is spot on.
I have found you on cinema5d. Thanks for putting this together! Lot to learn! :)
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Great job on this guide, much appreciated as a newcomer to DSLR videography. However, I quickly ran into a set of problems not discussed here, and those are removing camera shake as well as rolling shutter (these are connected), in post as well as in shoot. I ran into these problems after my very first filming.