25+ years experience as DP, editor, colorist and vfx artist.
C300 mk2 is totally fair comarison, same price range, similar specs... but C300 is MUCH nicer camera to shoot with in terms of ergonomics, quick power up, you don't reboot it for frame rate changes...
Having shot with the camera, the long reboot times are deadly PITA. we change frame rates on some jobs all the time.
Nobody talked about audio on this camera :
No actual audio level controls with knobs, switches. Just bizarre considering Panasonic makes great ENG cameras that do have these controls
No dedicated level meters / display
5 Pin XLR's for ins require yet another adapter... and if you don't have one you are SOL
MicroP2 - really ????? no really ????? why not CFast 2 which is a standard ? and way faster than P2/ P2micro
Did anyone mention how bad the reboots are ?????
can you say "eyes wide shut" ?
thanks for that... I guess time will tell if RED does / can fix things. However if you have to go out and shoot something tomorrow morning... a fix down the road won't do you much good.
FWIW it took canon a good 6+ months to resolve shadow noise / horizontal banding / black sun in the C300 Mk2 but they did indeed improve it significantly, along with cLog3 which doesn't over stretch the shadows so much which brings up the noise floor. However even cLog2 looks better after firmer 1.03 but clog3 is probably the ideal setting to shoot with as its very easy to grade.
The real problem could simply be the LUT. I've given up on LUTs because they often do wonky things to images, clipping highs and lows, weird curves, colors, etc. The difference between 800 and 1250 is a 1/2 stop. not enough to account for the RED's problems. FAR more likely the LUT used is the problem. I'd highly suggest instead doing a hand grade begining with taking white to white, black to black, and a hand dialed in curve as a base grade and see what you get. Far easier to get a good image that way in which you can control things. Having had LUTs trash images - clipping in particular, I've simple lost patience in dealing with them for grading and bring out the most the captured image has to offer.
Yes it would of been great to throw in a F5 and C300 mk2 into the mix as this pretty much the go to cameras these days depending on what sort of productions you work on
there are a number of things missing but the most important is safety gear.
#1 must have : raincoat for camera. if it gets crazy, or just plain rains, or some one throws water, protect the camera. a _clear_ plastic bag is better than nothing and even pro's will use these in an emergency.
#2 helmet : anything is better than nothing, and something like a bike helmet is less challenging than a real combat type one. Kayaking helmets are small and solid, some other sporting ones are also ok. You can carry this *discretely* in a back pack and if things look like they are going to get serious, put it on.
3# Eye protection. Even simple wrap around googles from the work shop are better than nothing. Ones for skiing or diving are better since they will seal better against fun stuff like tear gas.
from here : real gas mask, and for the crazy stuff, body armor. skip the steel plate stuff because a projectile ( or fragments ) can travel along the surface of a steel plate and hit you anyway. the real stuff is expensive but if you do it for a living, its a cheap investment. I have also had private security hired on some shoots as well.
Water - not just for drinking but washing your face / eyes of tear gassed.
can't imagine any of this wasn't mentioned. protests can and do turn into riots sometimes. be prepared always and never assume it will stay peaceful. I've seen events turn different in an instant.
the tamron lens is pretty crappy. canon 17-55 is a vastly better lens + it has reliable AF..... but I'd take a light ENG camera. much easier to work with in these sorts of situations plus you can use it as a shield if you have too against thrown things. it at least gives you some more head protections on your right side.
as for mics, I'm pulling out my crappy one, not the good expensive one. If it gets water damaged or broken due to physical act, I'm not crying over a $200 mic. I would about a $2k one. ditto choices in other gear.