I saw this in 70mm as I'm sure most of you have, and I personally don't think the extra cost required to shoot this way was worth it (except for the publicity and envy it generates amongst one's peers). I just don't think the difference between this and 35mm (or between 35mm and highest-end digital) is worth the cost. Besides, I've never seen a film shot and projected digital have a problem with scratches, but there was a very short section I saw that had scratches.
I have an Autel X-Star Premium, and my first time out with it I just couldn't get the compass to calibrate. Then I figured it out - I was standing on a concrete slab, and it likely had rebar in it. I moved to a grassy area and it calibrated just fine. Sometimes the simplest things...
A correction and a few notes...
The lower end of the weight scale was mentioned as .55 grams, which is less than 1/50th of an ounce. It's .55 pounds. But since - currently - hobby flyers don't need to register their drones it's not really an issue.
Hobby flying within two miles of a controlled airport requires FAA approval in advance, via the control tower. Flying in a zone from two miles to five miles requires notification of the control tower and airport operator, but approval is not required.
The Hover app mentioned includes a way to monitor the KP index, which is a measure of solar storm activity. A high index means the potential for radio remote control interference exists. The map feature of this app is powered by the next app.
The Airmap app lets you plan a flight to learn of potential restricted areas, and if the control towers of nearby airports can receive digital notifications, you can submit your notice to them electronically. Airmap doesn't provide KP index information, so for me that seems to be the only reason to use Hover.
The FAA's app, B4UFLY, has a silly name but is actually a very useful app. It lets you plan your flight and notify the airports in the area, and it also has a lot of information about the regulations and best practices, a list of US airports and national parks, as well as Temporary Flight Restrictions (TFRs). This app lets you know right on the very first page if you're in an area with restrictions or special requirements.
I figure each of the three apps has value, so I keep them all on my phone.
Headless mode - he suggested no using this, but it seems like a good idea to me when it's appropriate. Normally, the front of the drone is always the front of the drone, so if you're flying it back to yourself in "forward," everything is backwards, or 90 degrees out if you're flying "forward" but to your left or right. Headless mode reconfigures the brain so that the "front" of the drone is always the side that's facing away from you. That reduces the confusion factor.
There are the remote control modes to consider. The mode specifies which joystick does what. Most drones are set up for Mode 2. In this mode, the left joystick controls up and down - forward on the stick is up, back on the stick is down. Pushing the stick to the left spins (yaws) the drone to the left, and pushing it to the right yaws the drone to the right. With the right stick, pushing forwards moves the drone forwards, pulling back on it moves the drone backwards, pushing to the left slides (translates) the drone left, and pushing to the right translates it to the right.
My only partial disagreement is with the last point, "Cinema crop: Choose a "cinematic aspect ratio," like 1.85:1 and 2.39:1."
If the camera can shoot full 4K, I'd go with the full frame and then crop down as needed to your final aspect ratio, especially if you need to do any stabilizing in post. I know that's a big "duh" kind of a thing to say, but it wasn't mentioned and "it needed sayin', pardner."
I think this might have been posted here at NFS before, but it's a video with Ramesh Raskar (nod to Thomas Hogben) that shows pulses light traveling through bottles and across fruit - the same thing you mentioned Thomas. (EDIT: But this isn't nearly as impressive - it's only ONE trillion frames per second, like molasses.)