December 12, 2015 at 4:06AM

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Whats the min cost to get a Bmpcc working for music video?

Should i buy a used BMPCC for 500$?
Whats the min cost to get a Bmpcc working for music video?

I intend to buy just one lense. Whats the min cost i can get? a glass which fulfills all my basic needs. Can i get it working under a 1000$? Most affordable glass for bmpcc? i have my eyes on rokinon 35mm. but ill have to buy a speedbooster. Suggestions?

5 Comments

"The enemy of art is the absence of limitations" (see http://quoteinvestigator.com/2014/05/24/art-limit/ for who might have said it). Buying just one lens is a great way to create the kind of limits that in turn create art. Cool!

But why get a Rokinon 35mm + Speedbooster when you can get a fast, fantastic 25mm or 17mm lens that ready-made for m43 (and smaller sensors)? In my m43 experience, a smaller, lighter lens will balance better with the camera.

When you talk about music video, are you talking about producing music videos (such as romping around in the desert or base-jumping from a sky-scraper)? Or are you talking about recording performances from the apron of a stage?

December 13, 2015 at 4:44AM

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Recording performances.How will i deal with the crop factor and achieve wider shots?

Ahmad

December 14, 2015 at 2:14AM

I shoot a lot of musical performances at my recording studio. Most of these video shoots document the recording process. It is akin to recording performances, but without the audience present (or at least not as visible).

The best way to make a single camera with a single lens work, you have to move the camera. Not just panning on a tripod head, or tracking down a 3' slider. You have to move from subject to subject, from perspective to perspective. Otherwise, your video is going to look like it was shot from a security camera.

Unlike the still photography world, where one can crop a 35MP photo down to 2MP (a 4:1 crop) and still have something that looks good on the web, 1080p video starts looking really dicey when you crop it by even 2:1. So you don't want to rely on the idea that you can shoot wide and crop in. You can definitely shoot loose (leaving yourself some reframing options if you need to rotate your image or zoom in 20%), but shooting wide and punching is better done with 4K (or more) cameras, not a BMPCC.

Finally, the best lens is one that captures your subject well. If your subject is the whole band and not any single member, you will need a wide-angle lens. If your subject is a classical pianist who plays a 9' concert grand, you have to decide how much of the piano and how much of the musician you want in the frame. If you shoot the whole piano, you won't get a lot of details in the face or see a lot of details of the hands. If you are free to move in, out, and around, you can of course get the close-in as well as the wide shots. But if you are limited in your ability to move around, you really have to think about what is your subject, and how best to frame the subject. You should have that subject, and your perspective, in mind before making your equipment choice.

December 14, 2015 at 3:57AM

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1000$?
Well you could get a speedbooster knockof like lensturbo or whatever is best right now. And the EF 1.8 50mm plus a wide angle.

I dont quite understand why you only want to use one lens... i guess the sigma 18-35 comes to mind if you are willing to stretch you budget.

There is a really nice cctv (c mount) lens that you can get for around 30$, its a 35 f1.7 lens which is sold under different names. Its really usable. the adapter is around 5$. They also have a 25mm 1.4 which is shitty, dont buy that. You could use it for the beauty shots and some image stabilized panasonic kit lens if you want it really cheap...

December 8, 2016 at 8:53AM

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Daniel
just a filmmaker
199

damn i got fooled by the nfs coding. this is OLD.

December 8, 2016 at 8:56AM

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Daniel
just a filmmaker
199

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