Nothing truly has the imax feel short of imax itself. Its significantly higher resolution and the 70mm sensor is what really gives that felling, shoot 6k dragon will in theory blow up to the 70mm film size it doesn't have the same feeling. I would focus more on the story and visual story telling then trying to get the imax feeling, if it was something you could accomplish easy everyone would be doing it.
For your 2.40:1 stuff you could look into getting an anamorphic adaptor of some kind to give you approximated lens distortion and edge softening with realistic flares to help sell the anamorphic look.
Faking candles is tough, especially a single candle. In the past I have taken a standard 60w bulb and rigged it to the end of a boom pole and had it attached to an inline dimmer, the guy "lamp operating" would then keep the lamp just out of frame as close to the candle as possible (we asked the actor to keep the candle just off centre of his body so we could keep it a little sidey) and mimic the movements of the actor while someone else operated the dimmer to fake a little flicker. This method is very cheap and works decently well for close ups, for wide stuff Aidan's idea of the towel works great, I have done it with yellow/gold bed sheets. Same principles as my boom pole idea just a bigger scale.
I would also add some ambient light to your location with some very cool soft lights to mimic moon light seeping in or something just to add some dynamic and texture to the background if its in a library I assume there would be windows or something and this will help you get some fill in the room.
I would get a couple LED panels and place them to look like moon light coming in through windows. place them in front of where a window "should" be and get a set of blinds or cut foam core to hang in front and break up your light. Put it in rooms down the hall spilling into the hallway when they are walking to add dimension. Dim them down and diffuse them to give a nice side light to key with and keep a bounce card near by for fill if its to contrasty for you. I believe in getting it close as you can on set and just tweak in post.
Rental prices shouldn't be to high on a couple panels, check for local owners or friends who may be willing to give you a deal on the rental or hire them if they bring them along type thing. You could also use work lights or LED strips or something from home depot or ikea. Just keep some diffusion near by to soften the source.
I like it, I love being able to quickly check out the questions section and help provide answers and help out people with problems or advice. Then when I have sometime or I am interested in learning about something more I can check out the discussions board. Really like the set up! I also agree with David about the default sort order should be "newest" or have it as a profile setting option! Thanks for the new wicked board and site!
I personally use wordpress for all my stuff, I buy templates usually from theme forest then alter them to meet my needs, that way it makes it very each to change to a new look, very simple to update all the time, everything is keep neat and tidy inside the CMS and its all done without needing any software unless you want to create some graphics or something in photoshop. I use to hand code and build my own sites but the out of the box solution is now so simple and so good there is no need unless you really need something complex and extraordinary. If you want to do it by hand photoshop and dreamweaver are your easiest options.
I have the lanparte and a tilta plate with a wooden camera one on the way (all for different rigs) and I couldn't say one is better than the other. Just make sure if you need a d-tap port or a 12v plug out that it has your requirements, my Lanparte has dtap, 12v, 15v, 5v, usb and hdmi splitter built in which is convenient.
I have everything in v-mount with a couple anton adaptor plates incase I run into anton batteries on set somewhere. Anton is nice to for the locking pins but I haven't had issues with the v-mount.