Producer/Director at Hyperdriven Pictures and founder of the Sydney Short Film School.
Looks fantastic. Why am I paying $400/year for Avid Media Composer support...?!
I would add a few extras to this list:-
1) I teach my students to check their FEW - Frame-rate, Exposure, White-balance
2) Battery level - make sure your batteries are good for the next take.
3) Lenses - are they clean? (A quick check/dust-off at every lens change)
4) In addition to framing, take a spiral sweep around your frame to make sure there's nothing there that shouldn't be there. Get in the habit of starting top left, and then scan the frame to check all the edges and the background - I've been caught out once or twice by having some gear or a light-stand leg in the corner of the frame!
Another handy tip - be sure to sync the clocks in your camera and audio recorder before you start shooting. It just makes matching up your audio and video files much easier (especially if you're not keeping a Take List).
I use isopropyl alcohol to remove fungus from my lenses. Soap is probably ok, but white vinegar might be too harsh on multicoated lenses.
I've used two effects for bullet hits in the past.
Garden sprayer with a long hose (aquarium air hose!). At the end, I used a small syringe (plunger removed) heated and bent 90 degrees, then inserted into the actor end of the hose.
The second is to use something like HitFilm or After Effects to add bullet hits digitally. Use that for your gun muzzle flash as well.
Best effects are achieved by using the two together.
Well, at the risk of sound a bit revolutionary, the best way to get 16mm footage, is to shoot on a 16mm camera!
For your consideration - the Krasnagorsk-3 - a vintage Russian 16mm clockwork movie camera that shoots on 16mm film and uses M42 lenses.
By the way, the native image aspect ratio of 16mm film is 16:9, so you could, in theory, shoot on any 16:9 camera and play with the colours. Don't forget, even the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera has a 16mm-size sensor, and so would not be a bad place to start, but who can resist an old Russian clockwork camera and a few rolls of Kodak film to get you motivated?!
LED lights having a single LED - like a Cree flash light - will always cause the banding or rippling effect. It would seem that these LEDs are pulsed at some odd frequency that doesn't help filmmakers. Use a LED light source having more than one LED, or use multiple LED lights to fix this problem in future.