I must say I really liked all the interior scenes in Ozark. The heavily underexposed shots in their dark environments actually worked well for my taste.
The problem I see is, that this sort of lighting requires a very "good" watching environment, imo.
I, myself, have a 3 y/o 75" Sony HDR TV with Dolby Vision support which was a high end TV when it came out. But even on my screen, the edge bleeding and clouding of my panel got very visible in these dark scenes. So much so that it became quite distracting.
So I guess that the look really performs great in a color grading suite and a 10K+ display in standardised studio lighting.
If you are watching it in less than ideal setups, like most do, it can become quite tiring. In this case a movie theater would be a more appropriate screening place.
Just my opinion of course.