Daniel Reed
Hat Collector
I agree w/ Ryan. The exposure results out of Dragon are more akin to working w/ film. Its a complete monster and eats up highlights w/ room for more. No more fighting w/ ND and IR to prevent clipped highs. I pointed the Dragon out the window during a midday sunny after noon and was blown away - I was able to get a fat exposure w/ no clipping at 500ISO at around T2.5!
I'm working w/ a local MX red owner to shoot comparison videos and hope to have something online in a few weeks while also comparing Rokina, Canon and Zeiss Contax lenses while we're at it. We intend to do lowlight, practical setups one may use for narratives, daylight and charts.
Thanks
IMO Do Not Buy Lights!
Save most of your money and just buy an annual inland marine insurance policy (should be less then $500) and a sekonics light meter w/ a scope (L-758Cine DigitalMaster) and seriously consider getting a color meter (C-500 ProDigi Color)
Those are the core three items you need to work w/ lighting setups like a pro
in terms of insurance:
Find the closest electrical & grip lighting house and ask them who they use for their insurance and that you are starting out and want to get insurance to rent w/out holds. They will often give you the contact info for their broker as well as alternates they except. Speak to those brokers and tell them you want to rent from that rental house. You should be able to get the insurance you need for somewhere between $200~500 depending on your state, city and vendor requirements. BAM, now you can rent true professional production lights for dollars on the hundreds, get hands on experience using those lights, learn lingo and if you have any questions on how to use the lights the rental house will tell and/or show you!
If you unfortunately live no where near a rental house...
Consider moving closer to one if you are serious about learning your craft.
If that is not an option, I recommend buying at least a light meter of some kind and a 3 piece used mole richardson tungsten set like 1K/500/250 watt set and c-stands. Make sure to get scrims, barndoors and cinefoil. Get at least one gobo knuckle/arm for use with light modifiers like cookies/silks/flags/solids on C-stands. Buy a bunch of sandbags. Buy/Craft some white & black bounce boards. Maybe craft a baby pigeon board or two. You can use milk crates w/ a liner to store and transport most of it (minus the stands of course)
Also buy several heavy duty electrical 15amp stingers (think construction quality power cables). Get a Chinaball of at least 500watt - google lanternlock for for the best chinaball for c-stand use. Do buy color correction & theatrical gels. You may also want to consider looking into a Source4 light by Etc and gobos - they are great for lighting and adding texture to backgrounds.
I really do not recommend DIY lighting solutions.
Best of Luck & remember to have fun and experiment!
Nice tip! Looking into this further there is also a K-Line ND spray that reportedly can be used for windows and wipes off w/ a little light methyl spirit. Does anyone have experience NDing down windows this way? It may not be faster, but definitely a cheaper option then buying full $100 rolls and cutting it up to match all the windows.
http://www.shopbleedingart.com/k-line-neutral-grey-dulling-spray/